Copper Mesh Info
Please scroll down until you find what you are looking for
Distillers Copper Mesh.
Now here we have a little info on an invention that has dare I say revolutionised the stilling world. The mesh is a saviour for those that use stainless steel equipment. For us that use copper systems especially reflux systems it just makes it that bit better. It makes an almost perfect batch every time. No real need for a carbon filter. Personally, I do anyway. But that’s just me.
This is a unique item it is o.25mm thick as opposed to some of the other mesh on the market. It is made in the form of a tube that is 125mm (5″) wide when played flat. Cut open and laid flat measures 250mm wide. It is a top-quality mesh product suited especially to distilling.
I myself have bought mesh from America. To be honest it cannot hold a candle to this mesh. Being that bit thicker it is heavier which makes it prone to the odd snag in production. If when I measure the piece you have purchased and there are holes I will add a bit to make up for this. This does not happen very often as it is a quality mesh. If as intended you are rolling it to fill your column a few holes will make no difference whatsoever to the end result.
Copper cannot be made 100% pure. It is impossible to get some of the lesser trace elements out of the production process. I have been assured that this mesh is around 99.9% pure. Can’t ask for more than that. I guarantee you will not be disappointed with the quality of the product this mesh provides. Ideal for anyone using stainless steel distilling equipment. Removes all the nasty tastes and smells associated with stainless steel. Please also be aware that the mesh has been degreased only. It may still have an oily feel. It has not been sterilised. Please do so before you use it or do a cleaning run with the mesh in situ before your main run.
In conjunction with some mesh, you get a near-perfect batch every time. All crap is removed by the copper. Copper mesh and other parts can be revitalised by using some Citric Acid. Soak it overnight in a gallon of hot /warm water to a tablespoon of Citric Acid, yes I know it will be cold in the morning. Then give it another soak for an hour in Baking Powered to kill the acid effect rinse with clean water and you are back to new copper. Simple. This method will also help to clean other copper parts small enough to fit in your receptacle.
Copper Mesh can be used several times before it needs cleaning. Its golden colour turns into a brown/black that’s when you need to give it a clean.
Copper mesh plays a very important part in making moonshine. Mesh strips out almost all of the nasties found in the moonshine. Whilst Stainless steel has its place amateur distillers cannot adapt it to his / her will. Copper on the other hand is a very user-friendly medium. Copper columns and accessories are second to none when it comes to making moonshine.
To help you make a decision as to how much is required. The mesh is 125mm wide when laid flat. A column of say ( 50cm )500mm in length and 54mm Ø. To make a roll for this column divide 500mm by 125mm = 4 It takes 1.6mts to make a loose roll to fit 54mm copper pipe. 4 x 1.6 =6.4mts.
If the column is 600mm tall/long the same formula applies. 600mm ÷ 125mm = 4.8 4.8 x 1.6 = 7.68 mts ( 8mts ) A 1mt column 1000 ÷ 125 = 8 8 x 1.6 = 12.8 mts
( 13mts ) and so on.
2.5″ 67mm Ø Copper tube takes 3mts to make a loose roll with no gap in the middle. The same formulae apply as above using 3mts instead of 1.6mts. i.e. 1000mm long tube will need 30mts of 100mm and 24mts of the 125mm.
76mm 3″ Ø tube needs 5mts to make a roll. A 1mt long tube would need 40mts to fill the tube with 100mm wide mesh.
4″ – 100mm Ø Copper Tube needs at least 8mts to make a loose roll for reflux.
Smaller sizes of Copper Tube.
35mm Copper Tube takes 70cm to make a loose roll. If you use the 100mm wide mesh divide that into the length of your tube i.e. 500mm long answer 5. 5 times 70cm or 700mm = 3500.00 = 3.5mts. 600mm long column divide 100 into 600 = 6 x 700mm = 4200.00 = 4.2mts.
42mm Copper Tube takes 1.2mts 1200mm to make a loose roll. If you use the 100mm wide mesh divide that into the length of your tube i.e. 500mm long answer 5. 5 times 1.2mts or 1200mm = 6000.00 = 6mts. 600mm long column divide 100 into 600 = 6 x 1200mm = 7.200.00 = 7.2mts.
If you use the 125 wide mesh it’s the same thing 125 divided into 500mm long column = 4. 4 x 700 = 2800.00 = 2.8mts.
If the mesh is 125mm wide mesh or if the mesh is 100mm wide. The same formula applies. Check the listing measurements before you make your purchase.
Foot Note—
This is primarily designed for reflux distilling to make a cleaner purer smell free product. If you are using a stainless steel column and have trouble with off smells and tastes then this is a must for you. It will produce the most perfect smell free taste-free distillate.
( Copper Mesh )
Copper Ferrule Info
I have a selection of Ferrules. This includes Stainless Steel, Brass and Copper. The larger ones are all but gone there does not seem to a very big market for them so when they are gone that will be that. I am concentrating on the 54mm / 2” size as that seems to be the favourite. I have weld in, screw-in, and of course the copper solder in ferrules. It’s difficult to photograph everything in a way that shows them off. If there is something that you would like and don’t see it please ask. I will do my best to be as helpful as I can. Nothing is impossible well, almost nothing, it just takes longer to materialise.
2” Copper Ferrules £14.35 each + p&p
Soldering Tip.
Many people have come to me with the same question.
How can I solder these copper ferrules to the copper pipe? It just will not form a seal.
Answer.
Simply just place the ferrule on a flat level non-concrete surface. Celcon Block is perfect.
Make sure it is as level as you can get it. Flux the ferrule and the inside of your pipe. Place the pipe on the ferrule. Making sure it is upright in all directions you may need to use something to help keep it steady. Heat with a blow torch in the normal way. Once the flux starts to run you are almost ready to go. Continue heating and apply the solder to the joint moving the heated point an inch or so up the pipe. Continue moving the blow torch around and just let the solder wick up into the joint. Once the solder stops wicking into the joint you are done. While the solder is still molten brush off any excess with the flux brush or brush dipped in water. Let it stand for a while or use a spray bottle to cool it. The thickness of the ferrule will hold the heat for a long time.
Do not try soldering the ferrule to the pipe while it is on its side due to the thickness of the ferrule and heat it retains the solder will just run away out of the joint.
( SHOP )
Copper Strip & Copper Foil.
Copper Strip is a very handy item to around. It has numerous uses. The thinner strip is very good for packing around loose-fitting items before soldering them.
The thicker copper strip is good for making small brackets. The other sizes are good for crafting etc.
All will be for sale in the shop section under Copper Strip.
Sizes are
1mm x 100mm Copper Strip
0.5mm x 100mm Copper Strip
0.01mm x 100mm Copper Foil
3mm x 100mm x 100mm Copper Squares
( SHOP )
Copper Sieve Plates Info
Copper Sieve Plates and Stacks make your HillBilly Flute.
I have a selection of Sieve Plates and Plain Plates / Discs. The discs can be drilled by you to your own designs.
The pre-drilled plates are around 1mm thick as are plain discs. The hole size in the predrilled plates are 52mm Ø 1.3mm holes, 65mm Ø 1.3mm holes, 74mm Ø 1.5mm holes, 105mm Ø 2mm holes.
The centre hole 10mm Ø on all plates. the downcomer on the two small plates is 14mm Ø and 21mm on the two larger plates.
These measurements are so you can make the final adjustments for fit. I have made the Weir height 8mm on the pre-made units but you can file this down to your own dimensions or cut some slots in them. I have made a couple of trial stacks with the 8mm stainless steel rods and nuts. This also allows the position of the plates to be adjusted to suit your requirements.
The 52mm ( 2” ) plate stack is £63.00. The 65mm ( 2.5” ) plate stack is £65.00. The 74mm ( 3” ) plate stack is £64.00 and 105mm ( 4” ) plate stack is £65.00
There are 5 plates on the 52mm and the 65mm rod plate stack. There are 4 plates to the 74mm and 105mm rod plate stacks. All rods are 500mm long but can be joined to make whatever length rod you require with the joiner nuts.
If you would like me to make them up for you it will be a couple of days if they are not already made up. ( Sieve Plates )
Dephlegmator Info
This really is an amazing thing. The coil is an amazing thing the cold finger is an amazing thing. They all do the same job. Reduce vapour into liquid. They all work in a similar way. Some work better than others it does depend on how you use your system. Some systems suit some people better than other systems. There’s no right way to distil but there are some wrong ways. These will be very apparent to the user who will seek more advice.
I must say at this point most forums seem to have their own agenda. They seem to me to have a few members that hog the entire site. No names no pack drill. But it seems to be across the board.
Yes do read and learn., but there’s always a but, do not take everything you read as fact. Take from these forums what you think is relevant to you. What Joe Blogs does may not work for you, his recipe may not work for you this does mean you are doing something wrong. It means you are not him or her you have to find what works for you. It takes time, trial and error.
I digress. The Dephlegmator is quite an amazing thing. The production starts at whatever depending on whether it is a first or second run. The second run of about 40% starts at around 90% + it carries on at this output throughout the run. Sugar washes produce very little fore’s and tails. But don’t forget to throw away what comes out first 50ml / 100ml just to be safe. Then all of a sudden the Alcometer starts to rise in the parrot. Tails. This is the point it tells you the run over! Collect a few tails for the next run.
If you use a cooling coil and dividing tray the changers are slower so you can make more defined cuts. It just depends on what you want from your system.
( Dephlegmator )
Cold Finger Cooling Info
Coil, Liebig, Cold finger.
This unique item has a 35mm solid tube as opposed to a coil which is filled with and from your cold water supply inside a 54mm tube. It can be used with many items.
This one comes complete with a Dividing Tray and a reflux variable bypass. I have purposely made it with the rubber seal connection. This is to allow it to be taken apart. Loosen one or both of the tap nuts and it will come apart.
Its cold finger is 200mm x 35mm + in length overall it is 45cm long including the dividing tray and its outlet for the Liebig is 15mm.
You get what is in the photo apart from the Sight Glass. The Sight Glass is for example only as to how you can use the system.
Click on the link and scroll down.
Info Reducing Fitting
As the name suggests it fits within another fitting thus reducing it in size. The small end takes the pipe of your desired size. i.e. 54mm x 22mm. 54mm goes into a 54mm fitting and your 22mm pipe fits in the other end. This applies to all fitting’s of this type regardless of sizes. I have some thin copper strip that I use to wrap around the copper tube to take up the slack. I will include a piece with every purchase.
Info Reducing Coupler / Joiner
Again as the name suggests coupler/joiner fits over the pipe on both ends to enable it to be joined to another piece of pipe. i.e. 54mm pipe goes in the large end to enable it to a couple or join to the pipe and the 22mm pipe goes in the smaller end 22mm thus reducing it in size from 54mm to 22mm. This applies to all fitting s of this type regardless of sizes.
These fittings are slightly oversize and that is why they are so cheap. They were meant for the thicker size copper pipe. The best way to solder them is to stand them upright rather than laying on their side. Another way is to place a thin shim of copper around the pipe before it is placed in the fitting. I will supply a small strip with each fitting.
https://web.archive.org/web/20210622164850/https://distillinguk.uk/copper-mesh/
Copper Fittings
I have a selection of 54mm copper fittings. These are all end feed fittings. I have chosen to go with the most popular size for distilling this being the 54mm / 2” pipe size.
I can also supply a range of pipe from 15mm to 108mm 1/2” to 4”. This being said I do not stock many fittings for the larger pipe sizes it is expensive. I can order it in but it takes time.
Ask the question and I will do my best to answer you. No guarantees implied or given lol. ( Shop Copper Fittings )
Beer Keg Spear Top Adaptor Info
These adaptors are hand produced. Produced here in the UK with UK shipping far cheaper than from the USA.
They are soldered in position with lead-free plumbers drinking water solder to a standard 54mm Copper Tri-Clamp Ferrule. They will fit all standard British Kegs.
British kegs are all much of a muchness from the small to the 100lt type.
Some have a triangular top that has to be cut off and a tri-clamp ferrule welded in place. Then our adaptor can be fitted.
Most are ready to go once the spear has been removed. YouTube has plenty of videos on how this is done.
The Adaptors are basically quite short around 9cm in length there is one 22cm long. But they can be made at whatever length you would like.
Days away not weeks away. Buy on Monday get it by Wednesday or Thursday, not in a fortnight.
Infusion Tube.
This tube is intended for the infusion of your spirit. i.e. to infuse flavour into your raw spirit to make Gin and other products such as Lavender Oil to name but one.
The tube is copper with a copper ferrule at each end and a copper sieve plate. No stainless steel to introduce any nasty tastes.
The tube is 54mm OD with two 54mm /2″ copper ferrules. The sieve plate is soldered in position with 1.5mm holes.
This is a hand made high-quality product.
( SHOP )
Copper Funnels
Funnels are made to order. I have made one for the photos so that will be available for immediate dispatch.
The sizes are approximate because they are handmade. They will all be similar but different for that reason.
The one in the photos is 125mm Ø and 200mm in length with a 15mm spout.
I also make a 100mm Ø funnel. Other sizes can be made. If you would like a different size please ask.
Please also bear in mind copper is expensive. Time is expensive but they are nice things to have around.
They are polished but not lacquered on the inside.
( SHOP )
Parrots
Copper Parrots I mainly make either a free Standing or one that attaches to the Liebig. These are almost always made to order. Never seem to have time to make any for standby. They are all made of copper. Polished but not varnished.
Most are freestanding with a built-in tripod, a dump tap is optional not really necessary on a free-standing parrot as the first 100/150mm can be collected in anything and thrown away. I also make one that fits directly to the Liebig. With this version, it is advised to have a dump tap fitted, again it is an option.
The tap is normally left open when the still is started up this ensures all the nasties are allowed to drain out in the first few minutes of a run. Once they are collect and discarded the tap is closed and collection begins. Make sure your cooling is running so as not to damage the alcometer. The optimum temperature is 20ºC. This gives you the correct alcohol reading.
( SHOP )
THUMPERS
Basics.
A Thumper is mainly used for pot stilling but can be used with a copper mesh column. It will not work with a bubble plate column.
A Thumper needs to be approx 1/3rd the size of the still boiler for optimum results and be around two thirds full. Example 50L still boiler thumper needs to be 16L or 17L so the actual thumper wants to be about 20L. If on the other hand, you have a 50L boiler with 25L of wash in it you will need a 10L thumper with 7L to 8L of content.
Cold contents in the thumper need to be just over half full. Remember that as soon as you connect a thumper to the system it stops being an open system and become a closed system.
The Thumper needs to have an alcohol base. The base liquid can be preheated if you prefer for quicker results it should also contain alcohol. Water can be used but you will lose some ABV to start with. Likewise, if you start with cold contents it will take volume from the still which increases volume in the thumper until the temperatures equalise and you get an output.
PSI at Sea Level is approx 14PSI. This will vary depending on where you live. The higher you are the lower the PSI. Plus boiling starts at a lower temperature.
Temperature goes up pressure goes up. Temperature goes down pressure goes down. This can cause a still boiler to be crushed when cooling down because the pressure inside the boiler as it cools will be less than the pressure it was when it was hot and the normal 14psi of air pressure outside the boiler. As soon as you stop the still, open a valve either at the top of the still or in the pipe connecting the still to the thumper to allow air in. This will allow equalisation of pressure within the still boiler.
Slobber Box.
This is an entirely different animal. A slobber box is just an empty container. It collects slobber. Vapours come in one tube and simply go out another tube. They are mainly used to collect any gunk and rubbish that may be court up in the vapour path when pot stilling. Any froth or foam produced known as puking drops into the slobber box and the cleaner vapour just goes into the adjacent tube and into the condenser for collection.